Ancient Costume and Modern Fashion

　　Within the past few years art in dress has become an accomplished fact, and historic costume as a serious subject of art research has developed new and fascinating possibilities. The far-reaching archaeological connections of the subject have been especially emphasized as recent discoveries and excavations have more and more brought to light the manner of dress in the ancient world. The trend of fashion a few years ago took a turn far backward into antiquity. What was worn in the days of the Pharaohs was made to seem new, interpreted by Parisian designers who dip into ancient history with such careless aplomb, and flit with case from one epoch to another, from early Egyptian to Victorian days before yesterday.
　　It is acknowledged that it is this facile dexterity in combining past and present, the ability to cull suggestions from other eras, and endow them with the personal touch of today--and tomorrow--that has given the French designers their supremacy in dictating modern fashions. In the field of stage costume design there has been much rivalry in European centers, while in America the desire to create in all fields of costume design has already had very practical results. There are now plenty of opportunities for training in this branch of art. We have not only the numerous special courses offered in art schools, but still more important, the co-operation of museums and art reference libraries, opening up avenues of special knowledge only waiting to be utilized by individuals. And the study of the evolu tion of costume has a wide interest going far beyond the merely professional one. In the glass of fashion down the ages is presented such a wealth of human associations of universal interest.
　　EGYPT
　　For the beginnings of civilized cos tume we must go back to the source of most civilized things, the Valley of the Nile. In Egypt at some remote unknown dates were evolved the original types of covering for the human body the tunic, the robe, the skirt accompanied by shawl or cape. These were all worn with few variations by both men and women. Man did not really adopt the present nondescript and uniform attire prescribed by civilization till the beginning of the nineteenth century A. D. it is to be remembered. Modern interpretations of Egyptian costume have an air that is dashing and bizarre; in reality the Egyptians were conservative in costume as in all else. They appear to have kept on with the same fashions century after century, though archaeology has now progressed far enough for experts to say that certain things were fashionable in such and such a dynasty. In periods when all the arts flourished most dress became less primitive. The recent discovery of the tomb of King Tutankhamen illustrates a very brilliant period of course. Linen was the principal material used and the highly decorative effects were usually obtained by borders and fringes. Skins were worn, garments of gazelle hide, cut and seamed, and panther and leopard skins thrown over the shoulders. A warrior's metal cuirass appears, formed of scales, and it was imitated in all-over scale patterns.
　　With the aid of a little imagination we can conjure up from the remote past typical Egyptian figures. Most familiar, through having been adapted by modern fashion, is the clinging or wrapped style of garment extending from ankles to bust, with a deep, ornamental collar worn over the shoulders. The marked physiognomy was often surrounded by a wig, with a diadem placed low on the forehead. Head-dresses show varied and elaborate symbolic forms, the uraeus in front of the tall helmet, or skullcap shapes, is familiar. The most recent excavations have unearthed rich treasures in jewelry. The art of Egyptian lapidaries and goldsmiths is shown in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, girdles and finger-rings of exquisite workmanship. The innumerable little jars and boxes for cosmetics, and the metal hand-mirrors, are witnesses of how much of life was vanity, then as now.
　　All these things belonged to the luxurious side of ancient life, but Egyptian art records the humbler phases too. There are figures of dark skinned slaves brought to the Nile ports in war-galleys from the African interior, wearing the primitive loin cloth, or the short skirt, which were commonly worn by servants and peas ants, and by scribes. Strange foreign figures are sometimes portrayed, of Asiatic envoys, and "Philistines" with a distinctive head-dress and European cast of features. Many different notes in the garb of old Egypt throw light on the daily life of the people.